The finished car in the shop.
After the car was handed over to me I was quite nervous to drive the car home through the Austrian Alps. But after each mile I got less nervous and eventually I enjoyed the ride into the sunset.
The Eldorado when I drove it to the shop on November 10th 2017
The exact same spot exactly 6 months later.
It took the shop only 6 months to finish this big project. I think this is quite a short time for a job of this quality.
Rolling out of the shop.
On the way home through the scenic mountain side.
A short photo stop at the shores of Lake Hallstatt
When I arrived back home at 9pm I noticed that the power antenna did no longer work, and that the rear speaker was dead.
As I cant stand if something does not work I tore the dash apart and took the radio out to repair it. At 4am everything was back together again and works as it should.
When I arrived at home I tore the dash apart to repair the radio.
I will still have to repair the warning light in the left door, which still worked in the shop, but somehow is inoperative now. The bulb is good, there seems to be an issue with ground. Could be the door jamb switch or a loose wire inside the door. Looks like I will have to remove the door panel again…
The quality of work Bernd Preussler and his team did is the best I have ever encountered, and I cant praise them enough.
This was the first restoration where I did not have to do any work by myself and which was fully done by a shop. My part was to find all the parts that were needed.
Now I will take over myself once again.
You can find a huge image gallery showing all the steps of the restoration here.
The small team that restored my Cadillac. Thank you so much for your great work! You are my heroes!
Michael Hammer, Bernd Preussler, Angela Steiner (from left to right)
The almost finished car still in Bernds Restoration Shop
The cut out front floor.
Reproduction decals were not reproduced very accurately:
All the reproduction decals I bought until now - for all of my cars-, look similar to the original decals at first sight, but are different in many details if you look closely. The company reproducing them did not care to use the same font, font size, letter sizing and spacing or in some cases even the same size of the decals.
If you order the 1967 trunk jacking instructions from any of the big suppliers, you will get the one from a 1969 Eldorado, which is white instead of silver, and larger than the original ones and shows a 69 Eldorado. If you order the one from a 68 Eldorado, you get one for a 67 Eldorado showing a 67 Eldorado.
If you order a 1967 Eldorado trunk jacking instructions you will get this one from OPGI or Rubber the Right Way. It clearly is not for the 67 Eldorado.
This is how the 67 trunk decal should look like, but it is listed as a 68 decal…
Weatherstripping does not fit properly or is not available anywhere:
A big pain in the a** is that most weatherstripping you can buy for a 1967 Eldorado does not fit properly, no matter who produces them. It looks very similar to the original gasket until you try to install it into the car, where you will find some differences, which make it impossible to install the gaskets easily. You will have to modify most of what you get. This is very frustrating and time consuming. There is no correct or fitting windowfelt kit available for you 67 Eldorado. Nobody is reproducing it! Take care of your original ones! Also some other gaskets are just not available anywhere.
This cowl gasket is not available anywhere - you will have to reuse your old one…
None of the sweep moldings and gaskets are available as a reproduction.
Rear rocker panel molding clips - the ones from a 1966 Pontiac GTO will fit perfectly:
To be able to properly re-paint the rear rocker panel extension on the 1967 Eldorado, you have to remove the stainless trim and remove all the molding clips, which you cant remove without destroying them unfortunately. If you look for ones for a 1967 Eldorado, you wont find any. So I had to do a lot of research and luckily found out that the ones from the 1966 Pontiac GTO are exactly the same ones as used on the 67 Eldorado. If you buy them make sure to order the installation tool too. Otherwise you cant install them properly.
The clips before removal. You cant remove them without destroying them.
I bought 8 of these clips from OPGI - other sources have them as well, but they were the cheapest I could find.
Rear window trim moldings are hard to find and expensive for cars without a vinyl top:
The rear window trim on my car unfortunately had some rust through holes and my restoration shop said that they do not want to repair them. Especially the two small corner parts in the top corners of the rear window were beyond being repairable. I contacted all the usual Cadillac part vendors, but nobody had the smooth surface moldings available. 3 different moldings were used for the 1967 - 1970 Eldorados:
The moldings after sandblasting - they had some rust through areas unfortunately…
As we could not find any affordable replacement moldings the shop repaired the original ones - which is lots of work.
Ebay prices for used smooth rear window trim moldings. Crazy! Some sellers think they are made out of gold…
Factory sheet metal fit was terrible at the front fender covers and the taillight housings from the factory:
If you look at any 1967 Cadillac Eldorado, you can see that the front fender covers wont fit properly on any car. The designers did draw the fenders without these covers, but the factory could not mass produce a fender in this shape as one piece. Thats why on the 67 they settled to install a separate cover/filler as a compromise. Why they did not manage to produce a better fitting cover is beyond my knowledge. In 1968 they installed the turn signal lights instead of the fender cover.
My car was no exception from the ill fitting covers which my restoration shop did not want to accept. So they took the challenge and with some bodywork involved they made the pot metal fillers fit MUCH better. Some bending was involved, but you have to be extremely careful not to break the fragile pot metal covers.
The fit of the taillight housings also isn't very good and it has some gaps, which would be unacceptable by todays production standards. There is not much you can do to make the rear taillight housing fit perfectly - all you can do is try to adjust it a little bit during installation, but whatever you do there will still be some not so pretty gaps.
The front fender cover at the restoration shop - it will fit MUCH better now than it did when it left the factory.
The front fender cover at the restoration shop - it will fit MUCH better now than it did when it left the factory.
Finding the correct color is difficult with todays paint:
Paint back in the days used different pigments, which are no longer available with modern paints. Thats why the old formulas have to be “translated" for the modern paints used today. My shop is using Autocolor (PPG) paints and they got the formula and the "Atlantis Blue Firemist" paint through PPG´s archive. Bernd - the shop owner - painted a sample with the paint they provided and compared it to the factory color sample we had from the "1967 Cadillac Exterior Color Selections Dealer Book" we had as a reference. It did not match very well… So Bernd changed the paints formula slightly and after 10 different samples painted, he found a perfect match for the 1967 Cadillac optional color "Atlantis Blue Firemist", which we then used to paint the car.
The shop had to mix and paint 10 samples until the color looked right.
1967 Cadillac Exterior Color Selections Dealer Book
The hood is huge - and thats why most 1967 Eldorados have a light dent in the center of the hood:
If you sit on the steering wheel of an 1967/68 Eldorado and look at the hood and look very closely at the center of the huge hood you will most probably see a very light dent. At least it was there on all the 67/68 Eldorados I saw in real life so far. Most of the owners did not notice it. You can only see it from a certain angle. I now know why it is there. The hood is huge and will bend under its own weight. The center has a support brace to which the sheet metal is attached with glue/body sealer. Over the years this glue/sealer will shrink and the sheetmetal can flex more and will bend down slightly causing a light dent.
You can see how huge the hood really is.
The center support brace is glued to the sheet metal and this glue shrinks over the years.
The cowl´s vents originally were painted silver:
Most restored/repainted 1967 Cadillac Eldorados have their vents at the cowl painted in body color. When these cars were new though, the vents were painted silver to look like the chrome vents, which were used on the regular Cadillac models in 1967. On the "regular" 67 Cadillacs the vents were a separate chromed piece attached to the cowl, whereas on the Eldorado the vents are integrated into the cowl. This silver paint was just sprayed over the body color - probably by using a stencil and it did often wear or flake off over the years. My car was still completely untouched, and had about 80% of its original silver paint at the vents still intact. At this restoration we reproduced what Cadillac did at the factory, and painted them silver again. It's an extra step, but these little details make a huge difference for me when it comes to authenticity.
Angela masking off the vents.
After painting the vents silver.
Replacement trunk cardboard kits come in the wrong color:
All trunk cardboard kits you can buy will come as a flat black cardboard. The original material was more greyish with a pattern on it. So the flat black cardboard looks completely incorrect. Luckily Bernd came up with the idea to reproduce the original look by painting the boards. He did an awesome job matching the original look of the cardboard.
This is how the original trunk cardboard looked like.
Bernd and Angela managed to paint the flat black reproduction cardboard to look like the original one again.
Replacement carpets do not fit without a lot of trimming:
When you buy a pre-cut carpet you might think that you just have to install it. Unfortunately it's not that easy… You will still have to do a LOT of cutting and trimming to make it fit. Very annoying and time consuming work…
Even precut carpets will need a lot of trimming and cutting to fit.
Trunk to bumper cover is not available:
Take good care of your original trunk to bumper cover. Its made of a certain plastic and tends to break in some areas. Mine had a few tears and was broken. The shop is fixing it up now with epoxy and will sand it down and repaint it. Its lot of work that has to be done as replacements are not available. I could not even find a good used one.
The trunk to bumper cover during fixing it up
Change the color of the car or not? Or just leave it original with some patina?:
I had a very hard time when it came to decide if I should change the original color of the car from "Grecian White" to "Atlantis Blue Firemist".
Of course its always a matter of personal taste which color one likes best. Normally I'm an extreme purist when it comes to the topic of how a car should be painted, and generally I always prefer a car in the color it left the factory. I never understood how anyone could change the color of a car during a restoration. I discussed this topic with friends and fellow Cadillac owners for months. Most said that I should change the color to a color I like.
"Grecian White" is a very neutral and elegant color, but for me personally it was the least attractive color Cadillac had to offer in 1967. My favorite colors for the 1967 Eldorado are "Atlantis Blue Firemist" and "Doeskin". My 1967 DeVille is painted in "Doeskin" (Code 44), so I did not want another car in this color. When the restoration started, I still was not sure which color I would choose, but I had a very strong tendency to paint it in its original white color again…
The turning point was when I first saw the car in bare metal. All the original white paint was removed for the repaint. There were no traces of the original paint left anywhere. Somehow it was sad to see all the original paint gone. The car felt completely different, and I had the feeling that I extinguished the cars history and that I should not have started a restoration at all. But when I saw all the damage around the front and rear windows and the pictures of the chipped paint, I realised that it really was time to save the car, and that the repaint was not just a cosmetic improvement.
Some people suggested to just keep the car completely original and live with the patina. I do not have a problem with patina as long as it wont affect the cars "health" and the bodies rigidity with rust holes. On my car it was time to act though… Some areas were already too much damaged to just leave them alone. The few people I showed my car prior to the restoration never noticed the cars fantastic interior, the straight body, or the technical condition, or how fabulously it drove, but always pointed out the rust around the rear window and the poor repair attempts of a previous owner. Thats why I never showed the car anywhere. Everyone looked down at the car due to its obvious flaws it had and nobody noticed all the positive things this car had to offer.
When I saw the car "naked" in the restoration shop after all the paint was stripped, I suddenly did no longer see the point of keeping the cars original color. Even if I would paint it white again, it would no longer be original with its modern paint. If I would paint it in a color I like more, it would also no longer be an original car, but at least I would enjoy looking at the car much more. At this turning point I decided to have it painted Atlantis Blue Firemist… I´m sure that there will be times where I will look at old pictures and regret my decision, but most of the time I will enjoy its fantastic new color.
The CLC (Cadillac LaSalle Club) will not deduct any points for a color change when the car is judged, as long as you change the color to a correct factory color of its model year…
The moral of this story: If the car originally would have had any other color than white I would not have changed the color. If certain areas would not have been too much gone I would have left the car completely original and have lived with some patina, but enjoyed an all original car…
One of the many reasons why there was no way around a repaint of the car.
One of the many reasons why there was no way around a repaint of the car.
Unfortunately the area around the rear window had some rust holes which had to be repaired. No way to just leave it that way.
In the paintbooth with fresh paint.
First time in the sunlight, with the first trim parts already installed.
This showed up when the carpet and the seats were removed…
After removing the black mess, the weak metal and some rust holes showed up.
Unfortunately the original floor had to be cut out…
Big hole in the floor.
A new custom made patch panel is fitted and will be welded in.
The new custom made patch panel as seen from the underside.
The new panel is completely patched in.
Seam sealer was applied like it was done at the factory. In the factory they just painted over the seam sealer. We will do the same here.
This car came with factory applied rubberized undercoating which was re-applied over the patched floor.
My lovely little family.
The last The last picture of the 67- still with the original paint.
The car at In the restoration shop during the first inspection. The owner of the shop was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the car.
Cadillac buyers had quite a color choice for the 1967 model year. Here is the original 1967 Cadillac Exterior Color Selections Dealer Book
Code 90 - The optional "Atlantis Blue Firemist" is my favorite color for the 67 Eldorado.
Atlantis Blue Firemist cars were used for advertising the new 1967 Eldorados - Color Code 90. This would be my favorite 1967 Eldorado color…
My car still looked flawless on pictures until you looked closer…
One of the areas where the paint was flaking off.
Some of the areas where the paint was pretty worn and surface rust was developing.
The rear window had to come out to fix this "repair" attempt by one of the previous owners…
Ebay seller screenshot - this is how they describe the hoses…
As you can see the paint stripe is just cracking everywhere.
As you can see the paint stripe is just cracking everywhere.
As you can see the paint stripe is just cracking everywhere.
As you can see the paint stripe is just cracking everywhere.
As you can see the paint stripe was not even painted correctly on the green hose…
The Rheostat when set to the lowest temperature setting shows around 2,5 Ω You can check if it is working with an Ohmmeter.
At the highest temperature setting the resistance is getting lower.
The Amplifier part of the control head is on the underside. Something in here must have gone bad on my control head. I will try to find out what went bad and repair it to have a spare part.
The 67 Eldorado is back on the road for the 2015 season.
The last time I tried to repair the clock in my 67 Cadillac DeVille I totally failed. This was in 1998…
After I got the clocks in all the other Cadillacs moving again - I could no longer stand watching the dead clocks in my 67 Eldorado and DeVille.
So I decided to try to repair them as well.
The last repair attempt at my 67 Eldorado was very disappointing.
In 1998 I took the clock out of my 67 DeVille the last time, and after my repair attempt the hands started spinning in an extremely fast pace - like a ventilator. So I had to disconnect the power to the clock at the printed circuit at the back of the instrument cluster. When I did that I forgot to disconnect the battery and when the power feed touched some metal I had a short somewhere and some smoke came out of the dash… I could not locate where the smoke was coming from - all wires looked perfect. So I just insulated the clock coil power feed and gave up on the repair and forgot about what had happened.
As I found out now - some connection of the printed circuit board got burned back then…
After the failed repair of the 67 Eldorados clock last fall, I decided to try to find a good used clock. Once again Arizona Vintage Parts - my favorite source for parts - came to the rescue. He sold me two non working Borg clocks for a really good price. Unfortunately by now he has run out of stock for them.
So I tried to repair the clocks he sent me - appearance wise they were in very good condition, and I got one back to life for a short time by just cleaning it.
So I put it back into the car and then I made a stupid mistake and ruined it completely. I wanted to tighten the mounting screws and accidentally grabbed the connector for the coil - as you have to work inside the dash without being able to see what you are doing - and so I overtightened it… This stripped the threads of the coil… I had to cut the nut off then and somehow the oscillator wheel inside the mechanism did no longer work properly and when I tried to adjust the stepper it broke off :-(
BTW - Do not use WD40 for cleaning and lubricating a clock like I did… This will ruin the clock as I found out when it was already too late… There are special clock oils available to lubricate clocks.
The other clock I got had a defective oscillator wheel and I could not repair it as well…
So I contacted Arizona Vintage Parts once again for some new clocks but he had sold all his stock on clocks to Sweden…
I had to contact all the Cadillac Parts dealers I found in Hemmings Motor News for two Borg clocks, but I was unsuccessful or they were exorbitantly expensive. Some of the well known Cadillac Parts dealers either did not have them, did not react to my inquiries or asked up to $ 385.- for a used, rebuilt clock. Others asked up to $180.- for a non working clock.
Luckily I found a company called “The Clockworks" which was highly recommended on some Cadillac and other classic car forums for their good work in repairing clocks and also converting them to a quartz movement.
Everybody seems to recommend to convert your clock to a much more reliable and cheaper quartz movement. I thought about it for a while but I decided that I wanted to go for an original movement for authenticity reasons. If you convert to quartz the "tic-toc" movement will be gone and you can tell by just looking at the clock…
I ordered two rebuilt Borg clock movements for my clocks from "The Clockworks". Their service was excellent and they were a great help. Great customer service! I would buy from them again or have my clocks rebuilt by them anytime.
After I received the movements I installed them and put everything back together. You have the keep the adjustment stem and the housing from your old clocks if you replace the movement.
When I put the clock back into the 67 DeVille it did not work though. I soon found out that no power was coming to the coil through the printed circuit board.
I then remembered about my failed repair attempt 17 years ago and the smoke that came out of the dash… Somewhere the circuit board was burned. So I connected the orange cable going into the multiple terminal connector at #7 terminal to the clock directly and it worked again.
So I installed a cable directly to the clock. This is a temporary fix until I´ll have a new circuit board. Installing a new board requires to take the dash completely apart to replace it.
A printed circuit board is available new here: https://www.opgi.com/cadillac/CE11091/
The 1967 Cadillac Westclox clock out of my 67 Eldorado. Seen from the top with the clock face removed. The clock face on the Westclox is mounted differently than on the Borg.
The 1967 Cadillac Borg clock. The housing cover in place - as you can see it looks completely different than the one on the Westclox.
The 1967 Cadillac Borg clock out of my 67 DeVille.
The Borg replacement clock I got from Arizona Vintage Parts.
The Borg replacement clock I got from Arizona Vintage Parts - this is the original movement removed from the housing.
The rebuilt Borg movement I got from "The Clockworks"
There is a difference in the second arms: On the left the one from a Borg Clock - on the right one from a Westclox. They are not interchangeable. Also the housing of the clocks is different. You cant interchange parts between these two clock types.
I repainted the setting stem in semi gloss black.
The 1967 Cadillac printed circuit. The one for the Eldorado is slightly different though.
The clock in the 66 is now working perfectly again.
The disassembled clock of the 58 Eldorado.
The coil was burnt on the 58 clock.
Fully cleaned clock.
Back together with a rewound coil.
Back in the car - working perfectly again.
The 1967 headlight switch with automatic dimming
the light switch out of the car
Seen from the side - you can see the vacuum valves
Be very careful if you take the switch apart - as some parts will fall out...
The red cable on top is a fusible link and it caused the problem. I could not see from the outside that it was broken under the insulation.
The headlights are back in working order
The new factory correct POA valve. Internally it was calibrated for the use of R134 instead of R12. The expansion valve was also replaced together with the evaporator, condenser, compressor, O-rings, filter-dryer. I did not install a hi/lo pressure switch which would cycle the compressor on and off to keep the car original.
“Sometimes the dash control can be switched to the fog or ice positions to bring the blower motor on and then when it is switched back to auto the blower may stay on and the system seems to work fine until the car is shut off. If the vacuum leak is only moderate there may be enough vacuum to hold the master switch closed once it gets , but not enough to pull it closed in the first place. When the dash control is switched to fog or ice, it assumes the air temperature is cold and that the engine is not yet warmed up, but that the blower is needed immediately for defrosting the windshield. So it supplies vacuum to the master switch through another circuit, bypassing the temperature controlled vacuum switch on the heater core shutoff valve on the right fender well. This source of vacuum is enough to close the master switch.When the dash control is switched back to auto this vacuum source is shut off, but there may be just enough vacuum left from other circuits to hold the switch closed. This routine will work for a while but as the leak gets worse, there won’t be enough vacuum left to hold the master switch closed anymore and the blower will shut off again as soon as the system is switched back to auto.With these symptoms and behavior the problem is most likely the power servo. This is half the brains of the system; the other half is the control panel in the dash. The power servo is controlled by a varying vacuum signal from the transducer. This vacuum supply is a completely separate circuit from that which supplies vacuum to the master switch. High vacuum moves the servo to the maximum heater position, and with low vacuum, a return spring moves it to the maximum AC position. In between these two extremes, it regulates the air temperature door to blend warm air and cool air, and simultaneously regulates the blower speed. It also spins an internal rotary vacuum valve back and forth that makes various connections between the several small vacuum lines on the top. This rotary valve controls the various vacuum motors of the system that operate the AC, heater, and defrost functions. It is this rotary valve that goes bad. l have seen these things visibly warped, and very badly so. It must be caused by engine heat, because there is also one inside the car on the control panel that is moved back and forth by the dash control lever, but that one seldom seems to cause any trouble. A warped rotary valve leaks all kinds of vacuum and the first part of the system to be affected by low vacuum is the master switch; there’s not enough vacuum there to close it and turn on the blower. To verify this is the problem, take some spare vacuum line, some scraps of 1/8 inch pressure line (like for air shocks), and a vacuum T and manually make the connections that the rotary valve should make in the maximum AC position. The connections that the rotary valve makes in various positions are shown in the factory shop manual. Disconnect the black connector with the striped vacuum lines from the power servo. Connect the yellow, red, and purple lines together with a T; also connect the tan and blue lines together and connect the orange and green lines together. If this rotary valve is the one and only culprit the AC will now work beautifully and the blower motor will come on every time, like magic. With the dash control on high the system should be recirculating air and there will be a lot of air noise coming from under the right side of the dash; when the dash control is moved to auto the air door should move to provide fresh air and the system will become much quieter. Of course with these manual connections the system is not fully automatic and the heater won’t work right at all, however this is enough to diagnose the problem.“
So this rotary valve needed to be repaired...
I removed it from the power servo and disassembled everything.
The removed power servo
after opening the cover, you can see the rotary valve in the lower center.
remove one screw and a clip and the rotary valve comes out.
The rotary valve consists of two halves which make the connections - as you can see it was very dirty and rough - and slightly warped.
I started to wet sand both halves with 800 grit sandpaper.
When everything was flat and shiny again I used some 2000 grit sandpaper for a perfect finish.
Looks shiny and flat again
Make sure that none of the ports are clogged - I used compressed air to clean everything.
When you put the two halves together lubricate with WD40 to make sure that when you put them back into the power servo that they are properly held together with the underlying spring.
After I reinstalled them into my cars - almost everything worked as it should. In the 67 Eldorado I still had the problem that in the “AUTO“ position the fan would always be slow - so I knew that the control head in the dash had a problem with the “LOW - AUTO“ switch as well.
In the 67 DeVille the “VENT“ and “LOW“ position still did not work at all...
So I switched the control panels between the two cars and suddenly everything in the 67 Eldorado worked perfectly. I never had such a perfectly working system before. Its like it just left the factory!
In the DeVille I still had no “VENT“ and “LOW“ settings working... So out came the control panels again... (its a pain in the a*** to remove and install them...)
As it turned out the “LOW-AUTO“ switch on one panel was stuck in the “LOW“ position. You can easily remove it and readjust it to work again - sorry I forgot to take pictures. Make sure that all switches on the control head are adjusted properly or they wont work as they should!
So I knew that both control heads were working correctly by installing it back to the 67 Eldorado and the other panel back to the 67 DeVille.
While the 67 Eldorado was perfectly fixed now with everything working as it should - the 67 DeVille was still giving me the problem with a non working “VENT“ position...
I studied the shop manual for hours and could not find what the problem could be. I knew that the power servo was working perfectly now and I knew that the control head was in perfectly working order as well. I verified this once again by switching these parts between the cars once again and everything worked as it should in the Eldorado but not in the DeVille.. I´m really good in switching these parts between my cars now ;-)
I started to look for electric connection problems and finally found out that no electricity was coming out of one of the three power servo connectors, but I did not know why...
After I removed the power servo once again to re-check it again it struck me - one of the pins was slightly bent and the wire connector did not make proper contact. This problem was not visible with the power servo installed in the car. It took me 2 long nights to find this little flaw... I just bent it straight and everything works as it should on both of my 67 Cadillacs. Now I have to recharge the systems and I should have perfectly working AC again... I will also install new dryers and a re-calibrated R134 POA valve before the recharge.
One the one hand the 1967 ACC is very complicated but once you know how it works its pretty easy to fix. The rotary valve in the power servo is pretty easy to refurbish, the dash servo valve is riveted together unfortunately, so its not such an easy fix, but NOS valves are still available at “Classic Auto Air“
The removed dash.
The RediRad system! Great stuff!
The replacement speaker on the left and the original one on the right.
The new speakers with the old one.
The Eldorado is coming close to the 28k mark... Still a low mileage car ;-)
on the left the original actuator - on the right the reproduction unit from a 1969 Camaro RS
The different rod ends - the original one on the left - the headlight door mechanism is installed in the center of the rod end with a pin.
On the Camaro unit one could probably install it on the side using a bushing.
I have heard that this worked fine for some Eldorado owners as you can see on the picture below.
This is how it worked for another Eldorado owner - he installed some bushings on the new unit.
I found this picture on ebay at the auction for a 1967 Eldorado recently.
I bought an actuator for a 1969 Camaro RS. I removed the two pins that held the attachment to the end of the rod. Then I cut 3/8 of a inch of the rod off, so the rods were the same length. Then I beveled the end of the rod on a grinding wheel, for about a ½ inch at the end of the rod. This was done so that I could start a ¼ tap on the end of the rod. After the tap was done. I threaded on the Eldo clevis pin. Done! 20 minuets, $76 vs $245. Works fine. Thanks again for suggesting that in your post. Take care, Mark
The 1969 Camaro RS headlight actuator is slightly different from the original Cadillac actuator. It can be made to fit though.
The original Cadillac OEM actuator on top and the Camaro RS actuator below. You can see the difference on the mounting. Also the air outlet is slightly curved on the Camaro. There is a thread on the Cadillac actuator and a clevis pin on the Camaro rod end.
The original Cadillac OEM actuator on top and the Camaro RS actuator below. You can see the difference on the mounting. Also the air outlet is slightly curved on the Camaro. There is a thread on the Cadillac actuator and a clevis pin on the Camaro.
Mark beveled the end of the rod on a grinding wheel, for about a ½ inch at the end of the rod.
Mark cut a thread onto the Camaro shaft so that the original Cadillac clevis would fit.
Finished- works perfectly. The modification is done.
The shim was installed first and then the carb - thats wrong! The gasket has to go on the intake manifold first - then comes the metal shim.
Here you can see the burnt gasket and the metal shim
Putting everything back together again
Test drive after the repair - perfect!
My friend Richard drilling out the snapped off bolts...
Normally the thermostat is in there. You can see the mounting holes from where we drilled out the bolts. Unfortunately the threads did not survive this treatment...
This is how the doorjamb switch looks like on a 1967 Eldorado when removed. Sorry for the crappy cell phone picture!
I will have to clean the paint in the doorjambs soon as you can see in this picture...
watch on youtube or below
While the Eldorados were outside the garage my wife used the opportunity to shoot a couple of pictures she had in her mind, which she is planning to hang into the kids room. Cant wait until the medium format film is back from the photo lab. Below you can see only some digital snap shots I took.
Despite the last two unusual warm and beautiful days unfortunately winter is not over yet here in Austria, as some more snow is predicted for next week and the cars are back in the garage desperately waiting for April to come...
The Eldorado is enjoying some sun rays for the first time this year
Although she is 7 months pregnant, my wife Afra is still climbing ladders to get the best angle for her shots...
The two Eldorados in front of the garage where the snow has just melted away.
The whole AC unit has to be removed to get access to the evaporator and heater core... The slight surface rust that showed up where the gaskets were, was removed as well of course...
The big hole on the left is where the blower motor is installed.
This is where the AC box usually is installed
You can see how much has be removed just to get to the evaporator and heater core...
I discovered the first issue at the hot water valve
The hoses around the time relay delay were leaking a little bit
For testing purposes I hung a spare master vacuum switch into the car - this solved the problem
The old fast idle diaphragm was leaking and brittle and was replaced with a better one...
The 1967 Cadillac Automatic Climate Control Vacuum Schematic from the shop manual -
1968 is almost identical BTW... Click on the image for a larger view!
Here is a video about the Master Switch that a gentleman posted on youtube
There are lots and lots of vacuum hoses in the Eldorado to check - here are only a few going to the storage tanks...
I will also give them a good cleaning during the winter.
The new hose with the painted red stripe is already in place - looks some kind of original...
As a follow-up Glen recommended the following:
“You might want to look closely at the break in the link. See if it is melted or did was it broken by mechanical means. If it was just pulled apart or cut then you have to check what caused that. To trouble shoot this if it was actually melted due to over current, I would unplug the headlights and front parking lights, and temporarily connect a headlight or other big light bulb, in place of the fusible link. You can then try things without blowing fuses. With the troubleshooting light in place it will light up brightly if there is a direct short. With the headlights and front parking lights disconnected the test light should not light up at all under any condition. You should be able to move change the position of the headlight switch, switch from high to low beam (light switch in the headlight position); wiggle the wire harness anywhere and not light up the test light. If it does you have found the short.”
I did this procedure today but it did not show any shorts. I then reconnected the front lights and everything did work again. I will now have to find a replacement fusible link which is very uncommon over here in Europe. I will replace it together with the positive battery cable where the clamp is almost falling apart. I hope the issue wont come back. It looks like the fusible link maybe only fell apart due to age as it did not show any signs of burning. Its located very close to the starter and the exhaust manifold - so maybe 42 years of dirt and heat just made it crumble into pieces....
the completely removed positive battery cable harness
the original battery clamp - its already missing the spring part
The starting circuit diagram is showing the battery cables - Click for larger picture!
The Iginition and Starter Circuit Diagram for the Eldorado (693) and the other Cadillacs of 1967.
Click for larger version!
UPDATE 2010: In the meantime (since 2009) the Boyne switches they are getting reproduced and show up on ebay all the time. Also OPGI shows them in their Cadillac catalog. Its harder to find one for a T&T column as they are not getting reproduced so far. I do not know where one could find a switch for T&T though. If you know of any resource for T&T switches please let me know, I would love to have a spare one for my Eldorado!
When I was looking for a switch for my 1967 Deville, I only investigated resources for cars without T&T columns and this is what I found out:
According to the 1971 parts manual there are two different ones for standard column cars and one for T & T
The Cadillac Serviceman from August 1967 shows a revised procedure for a much easier installation of the switch.
If you need the shop manual instructions for a tilt and telescope column click here! Or just use the procedure above!